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3. Frictional brakes are most common and can be divided broadly into 'shoe' or 'pad' brakes, using an explicit wear surface, and hydrodynamic brakes, such as parachutes, which use friction in a working fluid and do not explicitly wear.Typically the term 'friction brake' is used to mean pad/shoe brakes and excludes hydrodynamic brakes, even though hydrodynamic brakes use friction.
4. Brake lines are steel tubes that connect the master cylinder to the brake hoses. A spongy brake pedal could mean air has gotten into a line. Brake hoses carry the hydraulic pressure from the brake lines to the wheel cylinders and calipers. The rubber brake hoses flex, allowing the wheel cylinders and calipers to move up and down with the.

When it comes to driving safety, nothing is more critical than your tires and brakes. Here's a guide to the two types of passenger-vehicle brakes, disc and drum. We explain how they work, how they're different and alike, why you may have both types on the same vehicle, what kind of wear to expect and what parts will need maintenance.

Braking System Basics

Disc and drum brakes are both based on a hydraulic pressure system. Braking starts with a mechanical force — your foot pressing the brake pedal.

1. A piston compresses brake fluid inside the master cylinder located under your vehicle's hood near your engine. This creates a lot of hydraulic pressure, generating a much bigger force than that of the small effort of pressing down on the pedal.


2. The pressure is transferred via the brake fluid through the brake lines then through brake hoses (flexible tubes) that connect the lines with brake assemblies at each wheel.


3. There, wheel cylinders convert that hydraulic pressure back to mechanical force. Brake friction material is pushed against the brake disc or drum, slowing or stopping your vehicle.

Basics of Disc Brakes

Disc brakes are found on most vehicles today. They are mounted on the front axle and often the rear as well. To stop a wheel (and your car), a disc brake uses a caliper fitted with brake pads to grab a spinning disc, or rotor.

The caliper is an assembly mounted to the vehicle with a bracket so it frames the rotor. It looks and functions like a c-clamp. It contains:

• Brake pads: metal plates bonded with material that provides stopping friction.
• One or two pistons to push the brake pads against the rotor when you brake.
• A bleeder screw to allow for servicing the brakes and replacing the fluid.
• A rubber piston seal that prevents brake fluid leakage and retracts the piston when the brakes release.
• A dust boot to keep contaminants out of the cylinder.
• Anti-rattle clips that keep the brake pads stable.

The rotor is made of cast iron or a steel/cast iron composite. It's attached to the wheel hub and turns with the wheel. It's the surface the brake pads contact. When you step on the brakes, pressurized brake fluid pushes against the pistons inside the caliper, forcing the brake pads against the rotor. As the brake pads press against both sides of the disc, the friction stops the wheel's rotation.

Rotors can either be solid or vented. Vented ones have more surface area and can more easily dissipate heat.

Two Types of Disc Brakes

There are two types of disc brakes, named after the type of brake caliper used: floating and fixed.

A floating caliper (also called sliding) is the most common type. It has one or two pistons. When the brakes are applied, the inner brake pad is forced against the disc while, at the same time, the caliper body moves closer to the rotor. This action forces the outer brake pad against the rotor.

The fixed caliper design has one or more pistons mounted on each side of the rotor. The caliper itself doesn't budge: It's rigidly fastened to a brake caliper bracket or the spindle. When the brakes are applied, only the caliper pistons move, pressing the brake pads against the disc.

Basics of Drum Brakes

Drum brakes are an older style of brake, not common on today's vehicles. When they are used it is only on the rear axle.

They don't use brake pads as the friction material. Instead of a caliper that clamps brake pads against a rotor, a drum brake system has a wheel cylinder with pistons that push brake shoes out against the inside of a spinning drum. This contact slows and stops the rotation of the brake drum and the wheel.

Which Is Better?

Although they both operate with the same basic hydraulics, the two types of brakes perform differently. Disc brakes are more efficient, provide better stopping power, dissipate heat easier and work better in wet conditions, all while being less complex.

Most of today's vehicles have disc brakes at all four wheels. Some base models have disc on the front axle and drum on the rear, to keep costs down. In these models, why are disc put on the front and drum on the rear? It's due to weight factors. A typical, unloaded vehicle is already about 10 percent heavier in front due to the engine. Then when you hit the brakes, the weight of the car transfers to the front. More braking power is needed there, making it a job for disc brakes.

Here's more on how disc and drum brakes compare.

Efficiency

Stopping power. Disc brakes apply more braking force faster, resulting in shorter stopping distances.

Heat management. Since they are exposed to air, disc brakes cool better. Drum brake components aren't as exposed to the air so they take more time to cool down after braking. This can cause brake fade, a loss of stopping power when friction material overheats.

Wet performance. Disc brakes perform better in wet conditions because they are open to the air and can sling water off easily. Plus, the rotors get dried by the pads dragging across them. When water gets inside a drum brake it tends to get trapped inside the drum, so it takes longer for the friction material to dry out.

Weight. Discs are lighter than drum brakes designed to apply the same force.

Emergency brake. A vehicle's emergency brake is usually applied to the rear axle. This feature is easier to install on a drum brake than to a caliper or inside the hub of a disc brake rotor.

Servicing

Cleaning. Disc brakes are self-cleaning. The brake pads 'wipe' the rotor off when they're engaged. Drum brakes are closed and are prone to brake dust collecting from the shoes, so they need periodic cleaning.

Repairs. Drum brakes have more hardware and can be more complex to service. But drum brake shoes and wheel cylinders typically cost less to replace than disc brake pads and calipers.

Maintenance

Since a lot of heat is generated by the braking system, plenty can go wrong. The act of braking converts kinetic (moving) energy of the vehicle into thermal energy (heat), subjecting many parts to very high temperatures.

This means a lot of wear and tear even in normal conditions. Some brake components will need to be replaced over the life of a vehicle. There's no set interval for this since it depends on your driving style, climate and road conditions.

The solution is simply to get regular checks and replace pads, shoes and other components before braking is compromised or other parts get damaged.

Friction material

Disc brake pads slow the rotor through friction and they wear with normal use. Eventually, they become too thin to function properly. Same thing for drum brake shoes. The friction material on the shoe gets worn out and braking is compromised.

These components should be inspected regularly. You don't want to wait until pads/shoes wear down to the metal and grind against the rotor or drum.

Other items in the braking system are just as important to keep in good repair. Routine brake service should also include the following.

Brake fluid

The brake system should be checked regularly for leaks and fluid should be replaced every few years (usually when the brakes are serviced). Any leak in the master cylinder, the brake fluid reservoir, the wheel cylinders, lines or hoses will reduce the hydraulic pressure that's created when brakes are activated. Basically, the system can't generate sufficient force needed to create braking power. You'll notice you have to push your brake pedal a lot further in order to slow or stop.

Changing out brake fluid occasionally is also essential. This liquid is specifically formulated to prevent corrosion of the brake hydraulic components. But time and moisture contamination can damage its ability to do this important job.

Moisture that infiltrates the fluid will mix with the brake fluid, lowering the boiling point. Even though it resists evaporation, brake fluid will then be more likely to boil and turn into vapor when it gets hot. There will be less pressure in the hydraulic system, causing a low — possibly very low — brake pedal.

Along with moisture, it's also very common for impurities like rust, road grit or brake dust to get into the fluid, causing internal damage to parts and reducing braking performance.

Seals

These rubber rings keep the hydraulic fluid from leaking and protect it from moisture and contaminants. They also cause the piston to return to its off position so the brake pads disengage properly when you release the brake pedal. If this doesn't happen, you could experience brake drag and premature wear and the vehicle may pull to one side when you brake.

Brake Lines

Brake lines are steel tubes that connect the master cylinder to the brake hoses. A spongy brake pedal could mean air has gotten into a line.

Hoses

Brake hoses carry the hydraulic pressure from the brake lines to the wheel cylinders and calipers. The rubber brake hoses flex, allowing the wheel cylinders and calipers to move up and down with the wheels in relation to the vehicle's frame. If the rubber wears out, your vehicle may pull to one side during braking or you may even get fluid loss and brake failure. If there's wear inside the hose, small rubber particles can restrict the flow of fluid, causing a brake pull or drag.

Rotors

The rotor surface can thin unevenly from the brake pad not releasing, leaving the pad in contact even when the brake pedal isn't activated. When this happens, you'll experience shaking or wobbling in the steering wheel when you brake.

Dust Boots

Brake components are constantly exposed to road debris and brake dust. The dust boot prevents grime from entering the caliper piston. If it fails and can't do its job, piston damage can occur, causing brake drag, pulls and premature wear.

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Master Cylinder

Failing master cylinders can leak internally. In this case, you may get a low or fading pedal without visible fluid loss. 10 gnomes in venice mac os. Regular fluid maintenance is important for prolonging cylinder life.

NOTE: There are different approaches to brake service. Get informed about why it's important to maintain more than just the brake pads or drum brake shoes.

Takeaways

Disc and drum brakes are built differently, with somewhat different advantages. Your vehicle may have both or just disc brakes. Both work as part of the hydraulic brake system. This is a system that's under high pressure, is subject to lots of heat and can be compromised by road grime, air, brake dust and moisture.

It's important to get regular brake inspections to keep everything in proper working condition. Refer to your owner's manual for a recommended schedule. Remember that funny brake sounds, smells or performance are indicators you need to get your vehicle to the shop right away.

Brake servicing is one of those routine maintenance chores you just cannot ignore. Brake parts have a life span and they do need to be regularly serviced and sometimes replaced to work properly.

Forlorn freedom mac os. Fortunately, your car or truck usually gives you some clear signals that your brakes are due. Sometimes they're harmless noises that don't require repairs or have simple fixes. Other times not.

Your brakes are one of the most important safety components in your vehicle. So if you notice any of the following common warning signs of brake issues, it's time to get a professional to check your car, truck or SUV pronto. You'll drive safer and head off more expensive damage.

1. Brake Light On

When one of the red or yellow brake indicators on your dashboard lights up it may mean you're just due for an inspection. It could also be your vehicle's smart electronics alerting you to a problem.

An engaged parking brake could also cause the light to go on. Be sure it's fully released to confirm that's not the issue. (And read up on what all your dashboard brake lights mean.)

2. Squealing, Squeaking or Grinding Noises

Hearing a Metallic Squeal While You're in Motion?

If you start hearing a high-pitched noise that stops when you apply the brakes that's likely the sound of the brake pad wear indicators. They're made of steel so they make this sound when they start contacting the rotor.

They're letting you know that your pads are worn out and need to be replaced before you get rotor damage, which can be an expensive fix.

Grinding Sound When Brakes Are Applied?

Grinding that you also feel in the pedal could mean a number of things. There could just be some gravel or a rock caught in the caliper unit, easily remedied.

But you may have gone too long without brake servicing. The brake pads may be worn through, and you're hearing metal on metal that could be creating grooves in the brake rotor. Not good.

Grinding could also be an indicator of lack of lubrication in vehicles with rear drum brakes. The brake shoe (the component that presses on the rotor to slow the vehicle) could be scraping on metal contact points like the backing plate, due to rust.

If you hear any of these sounds, get your brakes looked at right away to head off more expensive problems.

3. Wobbling, Vibration or Scraping When Braking

Shaking in the steering wheel or vibration when you apply the brakes may be the result of an uneven rotor.

Brake rotors are big discs that sit inside of the wheels. When you hit the brake pedal, the brake pads hug the rotors, slowing them and your vehicle. You want rotors to be smooth and completely even in thickness.

Over time and thousands of wheel revolutions, it's normal for the rotor surface to get slight variations. Rust can also sometimes develop. During brake servicing, the face of the rotor is often trued (smoothed and evened out) to correct these flaws.

This work has to be done exactly to your vehicle's specifications. The tiniest differences in disc thickness — we're talking thousandths of an inch, about three sheets of paper in width — can cause a wobbly feeling when you brake.

An uneven rotor surface may also cause the rotor to hit one of the brake pads as it spins, causing some of the pad material to transfer onto the rotor in that spot. Mable & the wood (itch) mac os. Then you'll feel shaking when braking, as the pad hits that bump in the rotor.

Another possible cause of rough braking is the brake caliper not releasing properly. The job of a brake caliper is to squeeze the brake pads against your brake rotors, which slows your vehicle down. It's the motion of the piston inside the caliper unit that causes this contact.

Due to wear from heat or road debris, the piston can get sticky. It may not retract the pads back into the full 'off' position when you let up on the brake pedal.

A fourth cause of bumpy braking could be damage to your brake components from improper wheel lug nut installation. (The lug nuts are the big bolts that clamp your tire and wheel onto the hub of your car.)

Any time tires are removed, it's crucial for the lug nuts to be put back on in the right order, evenly, at just the right tightness (torque). It has to be done in a star pattern, with just the right pressure. If not, you'll get uneven, premature rotor wear and be back for service sooner rather than later.

4. Leaking Fluid

If you're experiencing a soft brake pedal, have a service technician look for fluid leaking from the master cylinder or elsewhere in the brake system.

The master cylinder is the unit that creates the power for your brakes. It has a reservoir like the one for your wiper fluid that contains brake fluid.

When you apply the brakes, this fluid is pushed through thin piping, creating hydraulic pressure. If fluid is leaking from this system, there may not be enough power to force the brake pads to clamp hard to the rotors.

5. Spongy or Soft Brake Pedal

If you notice a difference in the resistance in the brake pedal — it feels 'softer,' or sinks all the way to the floor mat when you press on it — it's a sign you need immediate service. There could be air or moisture in the braking system or a problem with the master cylinder. Generally, in autos with power brakes the pedal should stop 1 to 1 ½ inches from the floor. If you have manual brakes, the pedal should stop more than 3 inches from the floor.

6. Car Pulling to One Side When Braking

This could be caused by a brake hose gone bad or a caliper problem. One brake caliper may be applying more or all the pressure during braking, resulting in unbalanced stopping.

7. Burning Smell While Driving

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A sharp, chemical odor after repeated hard braking on steep roads is a sign of overheated brakes or clutch. Pull over immediately in a safe place, check your parking brake to make sure it's fully released and allow the brakes to cool. If you don't, you risk heating up the brake fluid to boiling, which can cause brake failure.

If there's any smoke coming from a wheel, it may be a stuck brake caliper and possibly unsafe to continue driving on without repairs.

8. Bouncing Up and Down When You Stop Short

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If your vehicle rocks or bounces with sharp braking, it's probably not a brake problem at all. Your shock absorbers may need to be replaced.

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Not every brake noise or symptom is going to cost you. It could be a harmless squeak from certain types of material in brake pads. There may be dust or moisture somewhere in the braking system that isn't causing damage. You may just need to add new brake fluid.

But you need to be sure.

Brake parts wear out over time. Self-diagnosing symptoms or delaying brake servicing could put you and your passengers at unnecessary risk. And like with a lot of automotive issues, if there is a problem, the longer you put it off the more you risk big repair bills.

Brake problems far from home are a real inconvenience. Get a free brake check before your next road trip. Find the closest Les Schwab Tires and come on by.